SPOTORNO / Typical Liguria recipes
The basil is one of the most representative cultivation of Liguria, the symbol of an agriculture suspended on the sea. The whole area of Liguria is ideal for the basil cultivation because of its environmental features. The basil is influenced by the cultivation environment, and for this reason the one cultivated in Liguria is homogeneous in quality - the soil, the brackish air of the sea, the particular microclimate where the sea breeze plays a dominant role and defines the uniqueness of the production area.
The Pesto genovese represents the Liguria cuisine, to the extent that it can be defined the regional symbol as far as popularity and consumption are concerned. The very tasty "Pesto Genovese" exactly comes from this combination: with it you can surprisingly enhance every kind of pasta (better if it is handmade). The exclusive taste differentiating it from the surrogates produced in other regions is due to the quality of the basil cultivated in some areas of Liguria, where particular environmental conditions give the plant the possibility to acquire its fragrance and its unique taste. We must also highlight that each basic element for the preparation of a good "pesto" needs some essential requirements: the garlic, the cheese, the extra-virgin olive oil and even the pine nuts must meet the dictates of tradition. Another thing which is worth a mention (last but not least) is without a doubt the preparation itself of the "Pesto": the "mortar" to use is exclusively made from one block of marble, while the "pestle" is made of wood. Usually to enjoy with white wines.
La focaccia. Make a dough using two parts flour to one part water and roll out two thin layers. Place one of the layers in a baking tray greased with oil and dot with the cheese chopped into small pieces. Cover with the other layer and pierce the surface a few times with a fork to allow the steam to escape. Close the edges using a roller, sprinkle with oil and then with a large pinch of salt. Cook in a very hot oven until the focaccia is golden brown; remove from the oven and serve immediately. Usually to enjoy with white wines.
La farinata. Pour the water into a large mixing bowl and, mixing continuously, add the flour until a mixture is achieved which is sticky and forms a kind of veil when stirred with a wooden spoon; season with salt. Mix and remove the froth from time to time. Leave the mixture overnight. Put a little oil into the bottom of a fairly wide saucepan (if possible of copper), pour in the farinata to form a layer one finger deep. Make sure that the surface is thinly covered with oil; put in the oven for about half an hour and remove when the surface is golden and slightly crisp. At the moment of serving sprinkle with freshly ground pepper. It is excellent eaten both hot and cold.
La pasta ligure. "Trofie": Put the flour onto a pastry board, add a pinch of salt and enough water to obtain a relatively firm dough. Work it well and then pull off small pieces not much larger than the size of a chick pea, and, with the palm of the hand, roll them on the table to form small, short pasta shapes, twisted and tapering at the ends, about three or four centimetres (1 ½ inches) in length (to facilitate the formation of these shapes, wrap the dough around a long, thin wooden stick). When all the trofie are ready, boil them for a few minutes in salted, boiling water, then drain them and dress with plenty of pesto and serve. "Trenette": In a mortar, crush the pine-nuts, the basil, the garlic, the Parmesan and the pecorino (sheep’s) cheese; using the pestle, crush into a paste and then season with salt. To complete the sauce, mix in the extra virgin olive oil. In the meantime, boil the French beans and the potatoes in plenty of water for about ten minutes, and then add the pasta. When the pasta is cooked, drain and dress with the previously prepared pesto sauce. Serve immediately.
The "condiggion". salade with cucumbers, peppers, potatoes, onion, tuna, eggs, anchovies, capers.
La "pissalandrea". Put the flour on the table, dissolve the yeast in a little warm milk and add it to the flour. Add a little salt, 4 tablespoons of oil and enough warm water to obtain a fairly soft dough. Knead it for about 15 minutes, then cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place to rise for at least 2 hours. In the meantime, prepare the topping. Cook the thinly sliced onions in plenty of oil, and when they begin to brown add a leaf of basil and the skinned and broken up tomatoes; cook until the water has evaporated and the oil floats on the surface. Then add the cleaned, washed and finely chopped anchovies. In a large, rectangular tin greased with oil, spread out the well risen dough, having previously kneaded it a little: it should be about 1 cm thick. Pour the topping on top of the dough base, and then decorate with some un-peeled cloves of garlic and some olives, placing them upright . Sprinkle with oregano and put into an oven heated to 180° C/350° F/Gas Mark 4, for 50/60 minutes, then serve.
Salted anchovies. Sanremo, Finale Ligure, Noli, Genoa, Camogli, Recco, Santa Margherita Ligure, the Cinque Terre (especially Monterosso) and Porto Venere are main Liguria centres where this typical product is salted, washed, cleaned and wrapped in "arbanelle" (glass or terracotta jars) closet by thin slate. Anchovies dried and salted or alternatively under oil "sott'olio". A dish of them makes a delicious antipasti with a local white wine.
Ciuppin (fish soup). Chop the onion, carrot and celery, garlic and parsley and brown them in a casserole with the olive oil, add the wine and leave to evaporate. Add the tomatoes cut into small pieces and 2 ¾ pints of boiling water. Leave to cook for twenty minutes. Clean all of the fish and add a little at a time to the liquid beginning with those that have the firmest flesh. Add salt and pepper to taste and cook for a further hour. When the fish is cooked pass it through a sieve with its liquid. Place the mixture and put into another pan - again add salt and pepper to taste and if very thick add more hot water. Place on a ring and bring to the boil. Serve very hot with pieces of fried or toasted bread.
